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Bright & shining

Wait until dark, then light a candle inside Ravenna's Basilica of San Vitale: you'll be dazzled, awe-struck. Byzantine architecture dating from the middle of the 6th century, its brilliant mosaics--including 25,000 pieces made with gold--virtually intact.

Then go for dinner. You might be served an appetizer of sformatino di squacquerone, bright-tasting and fresh from the oven, accompanied by a delightful, frizzante (slightly effervescent) Malvasia. Two equally satisfying aspects of Ravenna: serious art, traditional food.