What Could Be More American Than Apple Pie?
Or More French Than a Tarte aux Fruits?

Here's a Fourth of July suggestion for you: strawberry shortcake. (Photo by Jon Rowley)

Strawberries are among summer's most perishable fruits, none moreso than the Shuksan and Hood varieties, which have a shelf-life of a single day. To get them onto a shortcake (drop-biscuit, fresh cream), the ripe berries are rushed to 20 Anthony's restaurants around Puget Sound in time for lunch, where they're used as the topping for a heavenly, quintessentially local dessert. "America's Strawberry Shortcake" is what Sheila Lukens called it in her Silver Palate cookbook when the dish first appeared at Anthony's 18 years ago.

Meanwhile ...the French American Chamber of Commerce, getting ready to celebrate the Fête Nationale we call Bastille Day, once again sponsored a francophile fruit tart contest to promote its celebration next Sunday at Seattle Center. The winner this year: Essential Baking Company, with an ooh-la-la raspberry tart, one of its new line of Parisian Star Desserts.

Created by EBC;s dessert chef Rebecca Chatham, the Parisian-themed entry in the contest featured fresh raspberries and apriums (an apricot-plum hybrid), apricot glaze and cookie can-can dancers, all topping off an almond financier cake in a buttery tart shell. Says Cornichon (one of the judges): Délicieux!. For $40, you can get your own, no dancers.