In football, it's called piling on. "Why do they do that?" you wonder, as yet one more heavily armored linesman leaps onto the pile. The ball's not going anywhere, and it takes the refs forever to peel away the bodies. Similarly, you might wonder why a restaurant would get a ton of gushing reviews the week it launches. You'd think Seattle had never seen a café with a literary name and an Italian menu! Can it ever be worth the hype?
I'm referring, of course, to Ernest Loves Agnes, newly opened at 600-602 19th Ave. E. on the site of the departed Kingfish Cafe.
Well, I can say with confidence that in a season of restaurant openings, Ernest Loves Agnes is at least as good as any of the newcomers. The Kingfish, where the Coaston sisters held court for two decades, has been given a makeover that retains much of its original feel (a long, narrow room with kitchen, rest rooms, and private dining on one side, bar and booths on the other). I mention the rest rooms because one of them is papered with pages and pages of letters that Hemingway wrote to his friends around the globe. (According to the New York Times, he wrote the first drafts of his novels and short stories in longhand.) The restaurant's eponymous Agnes is identified as Agnes von Kurowsky, who served as a nurse at a World War One field hospital in northern Italy. One of her patients was a wounded 19-year-old ambulance driver named Hemingway, who wanted to marry her, but she declined. In the movie version, the couple was played by Chris O'Donnell and Sandra Bullock.
But we're here to talk about the restaurant, which was created by Guild Seattle. They don't mind if you've never heard of them, even though they run high-profile restaurants around town. Relatively new (November, 2014) the founders ar eJason Lajeunesse, David Meinert, and Joey Burgess. Their projects, so far: Lost Lake Café & Lounge, the Comet Tavern, Big Mario's Pizza, and Grims Provisions & Spirits. There are running ties as well to Capitol Hill Block Party; to Mike McConnell's coffee (Caffè Vita) and pizza (Via Tribunali) empire; and to Seattle's music scene (as agents for artists like Hey Marseille and Lumineers). which feeds into venues like Crocodile and Neumo's. Until now, Guild's restaurants have all been in the Pike-Pine corridor, but there are plans to expand on Lower Queen Anne. Maybe some day we'll see a corporate organization chart, but don't hold your breath.
At Ernest Love Agnes, the chef is Mac Jarvis (with experience in Hawaii, at Coastal Kitchen, and at Lola), assisted by sous Tia Hawley (late of La Spiga, Altstadt, and Skillet). They've created some mighty fine Italian-American fare. (As part of their menu research, Burgess and Lajeunesse made the rounds of top Italian spots in New York.) Garlicky meatballs; bucatini with herbed marinara; squid-ink ravioli filled with lobster; a spectacular grilled trout; beet salad with fennel; pizza topped with crispy kale and Mama Lil's pickled peppers (kinda looks like the Italian flag, all green and red and white); another pizza with baked eggs, jack cheese, and speck. Also on the menu: roast chicken, skillet-seared steak, and pastas with bolognese, lamb, or spicy Italian sausage.
Best for last: a citrus-scented cream called Orange Blossom. At the preview dinner I attended, they were piped into bite-size pastry cups, delicious finger food. Bet ya can't eat just one.
Ernest Loves Agnes, 600 19th Ave. E., Seattle, 206-535-8723
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