From Tyler's lips to mine

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Tyler, as in Tyler Palagi, chef at Dan Bugge's admirable new Radiator Whiskey across the hall from Matt's in the Market, this is his baby: a bar snack called "Beef Lip Terrine Dijonnaise, $7" and it's one of the best things you can eat in Seattle.

The product is supplied by Seabend Meat in Shoreline. (If you've never seen beef lips up close, except attached to a living beast, here's a video introduction.) At Radiator, the lips are poached in aromatic stock, molded and cooled. Then they're cut into rough cubes, coated with corn flakes, deep fried, and served on a bed of creamy mustard sauce. They taste like a tongue sandwich at a New York deli, only crunchy, maybe not for everybody, but I could eat the damn things for lunch and dinner. If you're squeamish about lips, okay, you can get a similar preparation of corn flake-crusted chicken livers.

For his part, Tyler's about to appear on national television as the "interim chef" for the final minutes of Kitchen Nightmares episode about the transformation of the desultory Prohibition Bar & Grill in Everett into the swinging Prohibition Gastropub. (Previewed here shortly after taping ended in December; the edited version of the proceedings will air on Fox next Friday, April 26th, at 8 PM.)

Meantime, back at Radiator: there's a blackboard full of signature cocktails, including half a dozen under the heading "Manhattan Project" with names like Einstein, Oppenheimer and Bohr. Out the window, there's a view across First Avenue of the Showgirls peep show parlor, with a $9 drink of same name (bourbon, Ramazotti Amaro, rhubarb bitters). My favorite (from the "Barrel Aged" list) was the 1794: rye, Campari, sweet vermouth, $13. May just be the Campari talking, although I will admit, sheepishly, than In France and Italy, where they eat everything and then some, beef lips are typically dried and sold as dog treats.

Radiator Whiskey, 94 Pike St., top floor, Seattle, 206-467-4268  Radiator Whiskey on Urbanspoon

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This page contains a single entry by Cornichon published on April 20, 2013 8:00 AM.

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