When you get to the bottom of the bowl at Marmite, the splendid new restaurant on Capitol Hill, you might tempted to ask, ever so humbly, for a refill. "More soup, please," And Bruce Naftaly, the chef, will smile and reply, "Marsupials!"
Soupe du pêcheur (Fisherman's soup) at Marmite (1424 12th Avenue, where Chophouse used to be) is one of the best things I've eaten in Seattle. Golden Eye, True Cod, salmon, mussels from Taylor shellfish. The fumet is made with halibut bones, onions and leeks. The rouille has intriguing notes of bergamot orange. Silky-pure flavors. Yes, it's $12, and worth every penny.
Much more to come from this culinary master, including whimsy. Most chefs are super-serious, don't know how to have fun. Not this guy.
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