Consider this recent newspaper excerpt, which we'll call Exhibit T:
There's but one non-pizza entree, a wonderful lasagna built on layers of thin, tender noodles, ricotta, provolone and a complex ragu, then baked until bubbly.
Now, an earlier excerpt by the same writer in the same paper, which we'll call Exhibit S:
Lasagna was layered with a sauce in which the meat was pureed, giving it a funky, almost pasty texture, and the tomatoes had a tinny quality.
"T" receives 3 stars for its food, city-best for a pizza parlor. Alas, poor "S," a Sicilian-style dinner house, gets a humbling 1-1/2 stars, the lowest rating of freelance writer Leslie Kelly's six-month tenure as a substitute restaurant critic at the Pee Eye.
Ah, but it's the same lasagna, Leslie! Made for Via Tribunali by Mamma Enza, the same dish served at her own restaurant, Sorrentino.
Can't be easy, eating out all the time. We understand: tastebuds get confoozled when listening to "That's Amore."
Posted by Ronald Holden at October 1, 2007 10:45 AM
French Chef Sally is my friend Sally McArthur, who hosts luxurious,
week-long cooking classes at the Chateau du Riveau in the Loire Valley.
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